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Animal Trapping & Control

Super Sized Folding Animal Cage Trap

May 12, 2010

We have received many calls over the years for a trap that is large enough to trap coyotes, bobcats and dogs. We have finally found a trap that is large enough to do just that and is affordable for our customers. The Super Sized Folding Animal Trap is large enough for those animals but also can be folded down for easy storage. This trap is one of our favorites for the animal control specialist as well as the average trapper.

The Super Size Animal Trap a perfect solution for the trapping of coyotes, bobcats, dogs and other large animals. This Super Size Animal Trap folds up for easy storage and cuts down on shipping cost. Features double-latch mechanism to assure no escapes, extra handles for carrying and a black coated finish with GalvaPerm wire to prevent rust and corrosion. This folding trap features double trap door locks, extra carry handles & extra heavy duty steel frame construction. This folding trap was designed with a strong frame that allows you to replace any wire that could be torn by strong animals. With this trap you can cut away any torn wire and place new wire on the steel frame supports and attach. Largest trap in stock. Size: 50″ x 19″ x 24″

Super Sized Folding Animal Cage Trap – Reg: $160.00 Sale: $150.00

Johnny Stewart Digital Predator & Game Calls

Apr 29, 2010

Fleming Outdoors has been looking for a quality Digital Predator and Game Call due to the request by many of our customers and now we have found it. The Johnny Stewart Digital Predator and Game Calls provide our customers will a high quality, affordable caller that will call anything from coyote to crows and everything in between.

The PM-4 Preymaster Caller is a remote operated unit with a wireless range of 100 yards (up to 250 yards at optimal conditions). The handheld remote transmitter has a durable water resistant keypad with raised select buttons for each sound, making it easy to operate with gloves or in low light conditions. It operates on one 9-volt battery. The volume button is conveniently located on the side and it also has a lanyard loop for carrying it in the field. The base unit has three slots that are compatible with all available Preymaster memory cards for up to 12 available sounds. Includes MC-BC1 (Bobcat #1), MC-GP2 (General Predator #2), and MC-CY2 (Coyote #2) memory cards.

The base unit will play continually until shut off and operated on 4 AA batteries. There is a clip on the back of the base unit to attach the remote transmitter and a mount on the front to hold the speaker. The speaker has a 110+ db rating. A 10 foot extension cord is included to allow the speaker to be elevated while the base unit remains safely on the ground. The base unit measures 8.1 x 2.84 x 1.3 inches and the remote 6.1 x 2.55 x 0.87 inches, making the PM-4 compact and easy to transport with a total weight of 2.3 pounds.

Not only did we get both models of the Johnny Stewart Digital Predator and Game Calls but we also included the many of the most popular memory cards for the caller. Memory Cards Include: Coyote Calling Vol 1-5, Cottontails, Grey Fox, Red Fox, Crow, Snow Geese, Raccoon and Bobcat. If you don’t see what you are looking for just give us a call and we will try to run it down for you.

Johnny Stewart Preymaster Digital Caller PM-3 Sale Price: $99.00

Johnny Stewart Preymaster Digital Wireless Caller PM-4 Sale Price: $199.00

Looking For Whitetail Hunting Lease

Dec 28, 2009

Whitetail10

Fleming Outdoors is currently looking for some property to lease out for deer hunting located in the following states: Illinois, Iowa, Missouri and western Kentucky. We would be interested in farmland with adjacent woodlots. If any of our customers are looking for some additional income from a hunting lease please feel free to contact us via email at flemingoutdoors@yahoo.com

Thank You for all your support in 2009 and we wish you a Happy New Year !

Eric Fleming

Predator Control For Your Chickens

Nov 5, 2009

#1 Problem ” A fox has gotten into my chicken pen and killed 7 chickens. He keeps coming back every two days. What do I do !!!!

Fleming Outdoors has numerous customers that all have the same problems with their chickens….Foxes, Coyotes, Raccoons and Opossums. These predators are becoming more of a problem with the resurgence of backyard flocks. Chickens offer a tasty and easy meal for these predators. Once a predator gets in your coop or yard then they can kill as many as 2-8 birds a night. They will continue to come back until your flock has been totally wiped out.

Fox In Hen House 1

I will be focusing on this problem and be giving a few different solutions to control the predator problem. Over the next couple of weeks I will be posting articles detailing each solution for your current problem. Here are a few ways to control the predators in your area.

- Automatic Chicken Coop Door
- Electric Fence Around Your Coop or Yard
- Trapping of the Predators
- Animal Deterrent Systems

These solutions above offer a much more economic way to keep your chickens safe. Many pest control agencies are expensive and they might not get all the predators removed.

Eric Fleming

Rusted Animal Leg Traps On Sale

Nov 4, 2009

Rusted Traps

Fleming Outdoors has had over the years traps that are out of the box and get rusted. We have been selling these traps out the door to our walk in customers and I would like to offer them to our online customers as well. Currently we have the Duke #5 Double Spring Beaver Special Leg Trap and also the #3 Coil Spring Rubber Jaw Leg Trap that have rust on the traps. The traps are in good working condition but I would recommend boiling with trap dye and putting trap wax on them. Please call me at 800-624-4493 for the pricing on these traps. We will also get traps of different sizes that are rusted so you can call us to check. Supplies are limited so call now !

Thanks and have a Great Day !

Eric Fleming

Bulk Discounts On Animal Traps

Nov 3, 2009

Fleming Outdoors has recently added a bulk discount to our line of leg hold and body grip traps. These discounts are for the all of our trappers that like to buy in case quantities where they can get a price break. To receive the discount all you have to do is buy 12 or more of the same size trap. Many of our discounts are as much as 25% – 30% off.

Buy In Bulk Discount Leg Trap

Here is an example of the discount that will be on our website. All of our leg and body traps will have this discount available year round. Keep in mind we also have the Free Shipping Discount On Orders Over $185.00 (Coupon Code: FSHIP) available that can be combined with the bulk discount. No coupon is needed for the bulk discount. If you have any questions feel free to call us at 1-800-624-4493.

I hope this will provide our loyal customers a way to save a little money during our current economic climate. We at Fleming Outdoors wish you the very best of luck during trapping season !

Eric Fleming

Proper Use Of Snaring For Capturing Furbearers

Oct 28, 2009

We get many questions about snaring and so I have included below an excellent article on Snaring written by Dr. William F. Andelt of Colorado State University. This should answer many of the questions you have regarding snaring of furbearers

You Can Click Here for Our Full Line Of Snares !

Introduction:Snaring is a useful technique to capture animals that cause economic loss, such as coyotes that kill livestock and beavers that cut trees or plug irrigation ditches. Snaring also is popular for harvesting surplus furbearers, one of our renewable natural resources. Snares are effective for capturing target animals, but may capture non-target animals such as deer and dogs if used improperly.

Snaring is the technique of setting a steel-cable loop in an animal’s movement path to capture the animal by the neck or leg. Snares usually consist of a 2-1/2 to 10-foot long piece of galvanized aircraft cable containing a slide lock that forms a loop in the cable (Figure 1). Attach a swivel, which prevents twisting and breaking of the cable, to the end of the cable opposite the loop.

Snaring

Snares present several advantages over steel leghold traps. They are light weight, compact, simple in function, affected little by weather, easy to set, low in cost, and offer a high degree of trapper safety. In a south Texas study, snares were 10 times more selective for target species (coyotes and bobcats) than steel leghold traps. However, snares can be a greater hazard to livestock and some non-target species may be killed.

Snare Preparation:New commercial snares and extension cables can be cleaned by boiling in detergent and hanging outdoors for a few months until they turn a dull gray. Snares also can be changed to a dull gray by boiling each dozen snares in 4 tablespoons of baking soda for one hour. Darker snares can be obtained by boiling in brown logwood crystals and dye. After boiling, keep snares clean of foreign odors. Wear clean gloves when handling and setting snares.

How To Set Snares:Snares designed to capture furbearers by the neck or leg are set directly in the center of the animal’s movement path. Snares usually are held in an animal’s movement path with one of several different support systems. One support that works particularly well can be constructed from a 36-inch piece of 12-gauge galvanized or 9-gauge soft wire. A “V” bend is made in the support wire about 4 inches from the end and driven into the ground with a notched rod to prevent the support from moving in the wind. The snare is wrapped around the support about three times and held in place by a “U” configuration formed in the upper end of the snare support. Bend the snare cable upward slightly, just inside the lock, so the snare loop is not closed by the wind (see Figure 1).

Attach snares to a solid object so captured animals cannot escape. A steel 1/2-inch diameter rebar, 24 to 30 inches long (depending on soil hardness), makes a good anchor. Attach snares to the rebar with a strong swivel to prevent tangling and breaking. Use a lead cable that is at least as strong as the snare cable to attach short snares to the rebar stake. Avoid using 9-gauge wire or several strands of 14-gauge wire to anchor snares to a rebar stake because they may bend back and forth, crystallize, and break. When used for beaver, snares also can be secured to a tree that is at least 6 inches in diameter or to the base of a large shrub such as a willow.

Snares set in holes under woven wire fences should be held in place about 1 to 2 inches from the fence with the snare support system described in Figure 1. The top of the snare can be as high as 3 inches above the bottom wire of the fence. Set the snare far enough away from the fence to prevent the lock from catching on the bottom wire of the fence. Hold the snares in place by clipping them to the bottom wire of the fence with a fine U- shaped wire such as a 1 1/2-inch piece of a paper clip that allows the snare to easily release (Figure 2). The bottom of the loop should be about 2 inches above the bottom of the hole or coyotes and foxes may be caught by a front leg. With either of the above snare support systems, anchor the snares to the heavy-gauge wire on the bottom of the fence. The upper wires on a woven wire fence usually are too weak to secure a snare.

Snaring

Snares occasionally are placed in the field but left unset for one to two weeks. This placement allows trappers to quickly set snares when pelts become prime and reduces human scent at the site. Snares usually are set in the form of a round or oval loop. A round loop that is 12 inches in diameter can form an oval loop that is about 14 inches high and 10 inches wide. The following round loop diameters and heights above ground are recommended when snaring furbearers (Table 1). A 5/64- or 3/32-inch diameter galvanized aircraft cable is recommended for snaring coyotes, beaver, and raccoons. Foxes and bobcats can be captured in 1/16- to 3/32-inch-diameter snares.

A snare set in a hole under a livestock fence
Furbearer /Type / Loop diameter (Inches) /Height bottom of loop above ground (Inches)
Coyote Trail 9-12 10-12
Coyote Under Fence 7-10 2
Coyote Leg Snare 8-11 4
Fox Trail 8-10 6-9
Fox Leg Snare 8-11 4
Bobcat Trail 8-10 6-8
Raccoon Trail 8-10 3-5
Beaver Den, underwater 8-11 Cover bottom of loop slightly
Beaver Dryland Trail 8-11 2-4
Beaver Slide in water 8-11 Set bottom of loop 2 inches below water

Where to Set Snares:Animals usually follow the easiest route through heavy cover. These routes, which generally consist of trails, are excellent locations to snare furbearers. Specific locations to set snares for individual species follow.

Beaver

* Trails to uplands–place in water or on land along the route.
* Trails over dams–set on top or bottom side of water.
* Narrow creek passages.
* Den entrances: Construct a 2- to 3-inch high mound with mud and apply beaver castor. Make a V-shaped fence by placing old branches vertically in the mud. The center of the V should be open. The V should point toward the mound and be located about 1 foot from the mound. Place the snare in the opening with the bottom of the snare about 2 inches below the water.
* Under ice at lodges and food caches.

Coyotes and Red Foxes

* Trails leading to a carcass, bone pile, or pond.
* Trails in the bottom of ravines.
* Trails under fences.
* Trails into thickets.
* Livestock trails in vacant pastures.
* Narrow paths inside weeds or brush.
* Trails can be created by driving down weeds or stubble with a pickup or by walking in snow.

Raccoon

* Culvert — place lure inside.
* Under bridges.
* Holes under old buildings.
* Along river banks next to water.
* Along top of high banks next to a river.
* Trail along the top of beaver dams — keep snare up to avoid beaver.
* Avoid setting under fences and near trees and brush because raccoons can become entangled.

Checking Snares:Check snares regularly. Within any city limits or any areas annexed into a city, Colorado Division of Wildlife regulations require that snares be checked at least once daily unless mechanical means are provided to kill snared animals. In all other areas, snares must be visually checked at least once every other day unless mechanical means are provided to kill snared animals. However, all snares, especially those set near residential areas, should be checked once every 24 hours, preferably early in the morning, to increase the probability of releasing non-target animals unharmed and to minimize the duration of restraint.

Methods to Avoid Capturing Non-target Animals:Carefully select sites where snares are set to avoid capturing non-target animals.

1. Avoid setting snares on public lands where hunting dogs might be captured during the upland game bird seasons.
2. Avoid setting snares in pastures with livestock.
3. Avoid setting snares within 50 yards of animal carcasses to prevent capturing birds of prey and other scavengers.
4. Avoid setting snares within major deer, elk, or antelope wintering areas. These big game animals are much less susceptible to leghold traps.
5. Avoid setting snares on any trails being used by deer, elk, and other non-target animals. Attract predators and furbearers away from trails with specific baits and lures.
6. Avoid placing a stick horizontally over the trail to encourage deer to jump over or go around the snare. This method encourages deer to lower their heads and get captured in the snare.
7. Avoid setting snares under fences where antelope, deer, or dogs are using the crawl space.
8. Although most dogs do not struggle a great deal in snares and most can be released uninjured, avoid setting snares near residences where dogs may accidentally be captured. Use a short snare cable to reduce injuries where accidentally captured dogs might jump over a fence or tree branch. Also, avoid using entangling devices, which increase the chance of killing an animal, in areas where dogs may be captured.
9. Snares are prohibited along portions of the Gunnison, Piedra, San Juan, and Dolores Rivers and some of their tributaries to protect river otters.
10. Carry a catch pole to release dogs and other non-target wildlife.
11. Use the lightest snare lock possible, such as the Gregerson breakaway lock, to capture the desired animal. If deer, elk, and antelope are captured by a leg, they usually can break a light lock but may be held by heavy home-made washer locks.
12. Avoid setting snares where people can readily view captured animals.
13. Place the location and number of snares on a map so that all can be found.
14. Remove all snares at the end of the season or when they cannot be checked frequently.

Snares are likely to remain a legal harvest tool and a legal depredation control device if they are not misused. There is no need to make a set that has high potential for capturing non-target animals. For example, most coyotes can be captured anywhere within their home range, which usually averages 1 1/2 to 10 square miles in size. Thus, select areas where non-target animals will not be captured. Before setting snares, become familiar with state wildlife regulations. Learn the proper techniques and try to accompany a proficient snareperson while learning to set and check snares. By all means, THINK before setting any snare. Responsible trappers have an obligation to the wildlife species as well as other trappers, so do your best to avoid problems when snaring.

Dr. William F Andelt

License Requirement: A furbearer license is required to snare badger, gray fox, kit fox, swift fox, beaver, marten, muskrat, mink, ringtail, long-tailed weasel, short-tailed weasel, and bobcat. A small game or furbearer license is required to snare coyote, red fox, raccoon, striped skunk, spotted skunk, hognosed skunk, or opossum.

I would like to take the time to thank Dr. William F Andelt and Colorado State University for allowing us to post this very informative article about snaring. Eric Fleming

You Can Click Here for Our Full Line Of Snares !

Groundhog / Woodchuck Trapping Tips

Oct 16, 2009

Groundhogs or also known as woodchucks or whistling pigs are members of the squirrel family. Groundhogs are mainly located in central and eastern United States and also in Canada. The life expectancy of a groundhog is usually 2 -3 years in the wild. Groundhogs eat approximately 1/3 of their weight in food a day. Their diet consists of grasses, clover, garden vegetables, leaves, twigs, apples, berries and dandelions. Groundhogs diet is what generally gets them in trouble with the gardener and why it is hard to keep them out of your garden.

Hibernation: Groundhogs hibernate in the winter and they generally gain weight right before they hibernate. During the hibernation their temperature will drop from 99 to 40 degrees and their heartbeat slows from 80 beats per minute to 5. Weather also doesn’t have anything to do with a groundhog coming out of hibernation. Mating season is what drives them out.

Groundhog Woodchuck

Groundhog Damage: Groundhogs or woodchucks can remove up to 700 lbs. of soil to complete their 20 to 25 ft. long burrow with multiple chambers. This is the reason groundhogs are a serious threat to not only farmers but also residential landowners. Many of the groundhog problems that we encounter are from homeowners that have a groundhog burrowing under a building an construction a home. These groundhogs are making a home for the winter next to a good food source (Your Garden).

Trapping and Control Trapping groundhogs is what many people have to do to get rid of the pests and save further property damage. You can humanely remove a groundhog with a cage trap with bait inside. You can also trap groundhogs with a leg trap or a body trap. If a body trap is used no pets or neighbors pet can be exposed to the trap. The body trap is a lethal kill trap. Locating the groundhog’s burrow is important because the best place to set up your trap is just outside the burrow hole (at most 5′-10′ away from it). You might as well try to get him at the source, rather than hoping to determine the path he’ll take to arrive at your garden. Installing guide logs at either side of the path between the burrow hole and the trap will help funnel the groundhog into the trap. Another tactic to make the trap more approachable is to conceal the trap with canvas or vegetation. When using a body trap you can place the trap in the burrow so when he walks in it will catch him.

Groundhog Woodchuck Bait

Suggested Baits: Suggested baits include: Groundhog/Woodchuck Bait Trapping Kit, string beans, corn, lettuce, peas, cantaloupe, strawberries, cucumbers, peaches and vanilla extract.

Recommended traps for a groundhog: Duke Large Groundhog Trap, Havahart 1085 Trap, Duke #2 Leg Trap and Duke #220 Body Trap

Destroying The Myth About Leg Traps – Video

Sep 25, 2009

I found this video while I was reading up on some trapping information and thought it would be a good educational video on leg traps. Many people have misconceptions about trapping and especially the leg hold trap. This video shows that the animal does not get hurt and is released back in the wild by trappers and conservation officers. Thanks and have a great weekend !

You can Click Here for our full line of leg traps !

Muskrat Trapping – How to Trap a Muskrat

Apr 23, 2009

Muskrats are aquatic rodents that are the size of a rabbit and are native to North America. Their hind feet are partially webbed and they have able hand-like front feet with a waterproof coat. Muskrats are excellent swimmers and live in wetlands such as well-vegetated sloughs, lakes, creeks, rivers and small potholes. Muskrats are known for the burrow systems they dig in the ground adjacent to the water with an underwater entrance. During very dry times muskrats move where there is water available.

Muskrat Trap

Muskrats are generally 12 to 16 inches long and 2 to 5 pounds in weight. Muskrats have 2 to 3 litters a year with 1 to 10 pups per litter. The gestation period for muskrats is 20 to 30 days. Muskrats are somewhat active during the day but mostly move at night.

Muskrats create a great amount of damage to pond dams and land adjacent to water they inhabit. The best way to control muskrats is trapping with either leg traps, body traps or cage traps.

When trapping muskrat please consult your local game and fish department for state laws and regulation concerning trapping. Always remember to never trap where there is a chance of catching someones pets or other non target animals.

Suggested Trap Size: The # 1 Long Spring Leg Trap, #1.5 Coil Spring Leg Trap, #110 Conibear Body Trap or the Large Live Animal Cage Trap. The most popular trap for trapping muskrats is the #110 Body Trap.

Coon Candy Lure

Trapping of Muskrats: Muskrats are confined to a limited area of water and are relatively easy to trap. They are a good break in species for the beginning trapper. You can see where muskrats have been coming out of the water to eat and can place traps in those areas. You can also use the “floating log” set. Use a 2” x 10” plank about 2 feet long with a trap on the plank. Place the plank at the edge of the water with a lure on the plank. Make sure you attach the trap to the plank and secure the trap with a stake. Muskrats will stand on the plank to feed and in turn be caught.

Duke 110 conibear trap

You can also place traps in their runways. Runways that are partially exposed and filled with from 3 to 4 inches of water are the best to trap in. If the water is deeper then the muskrat will possibly swim over the trap. Use the #110 Body Trap for this set.

Muskrats are easily caught after freeze up by trapping them in their houses. Be very sure that the ice is safe before venturing out on it! Each muskrat house has a main chamber in it. Tunnels from the main chamber lead to smaller “rooms” and to the main entrance which is constructed under the ice. Open the house carefully, using a hay knife or similar tool, and insert the trap. Place the trap on the floor of the chamber. Most trappers use a wire extension in the trap chain and wire it to a stick outside the house. Leave enough slack chain by the trap so that the muskrat can dive and drown itself. This type of set can also be used at the larger muskrat feeders with good results. Carefully replace the material taken out when opening the house and tamp it firmly back in place. This is very important! If you do not tightly close the hole you made in the side of the house, the house and its occupants will freeze.

When a water area is frozen, active muskrats bank dens can be easily located by looking for air bubbles under the ice. In runways that are being used, the activity of the ‘rat often stirs up the mud, making the runway look cloudy. Cut a hole in the ice and set your trap in the runway. If the water is more than three inches deep, place the trap on some mud or grass or on a stone so that it is about three inches below the ice.

Other under ice sets can be made. The leaning board set can be used under the ice with the trap about eight inches below the ice and a bait fastened above the trap. Beaver type sets can be modified for trapping muskrats under the ice. A bait box set over a hole in the ice with a trap inside, can also be effective. Most such sets entail considerable effort and are no more effective than trapping in the house.

Suggested baits: Muskrat Lure #1 Lure , Fresh vegetables, parsnips, carrots, sweet apples, oil of anise or musk from another muskrat. Carrots and Apples are the best bait.

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